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a-papu
Papu, an autorickshaw driver, immediately adopted me. Often at train stations, you feel harassed, so many want your business. It causes you sometimes to get huffy and yell "Push off." Sometimes the person proves his worth. Papu was this. Although I hadn't counted on going out the afternoon I arrived, he said there was a ceremony on the Ganges that shouldn't be missed. The next day he showed me so many temples I lost count. He would tell me how much to pay the shoe watchers (five cents, not eight), not to pay guides inside the temples, and delivered me to a nice restaurant for lunch. He wouldn't eat anything, just a coke. He is skin and bones. "If you are happy, I am happy," he kept saying. He asked $5 a day, but was worth much more, which I let him know the last day. Once he turned a direction the cop directing traffic didn't want him to go. The policeman jumped into the rickshaw and reprimanded him, so he had to bribe him not to ticket him. Gas was a little more than a dollar a liter. He doesn't make much money. Call him. He's great. 9935 47 4573.

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