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The Belgian I met on the bus tour and I were invited to tea at the home of the fellow who gave the sage advice about the monkey defense on the way up to Jakhu Temple. Riki is the son of a Sikh priest, so is more than conversant on his religion. They talked about their arranged marriage—it's amazing how 90% of Indians trust their parents to choose a partner! His beautiful wife from Kathmandu and cute two-and-a-half-year-old live in a two-room apartment, furnished with two beds, floor pillows and religious images.
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The Sikh religion, Riki explained, started from when the Moguls were trying to convert everyone to Hinduism (another explanation is that it was a protest against the caste system). This religous subgroup became warriors, protecting the nobility. A story goes that one of these was beheaded in battle, but kept on fighting for half a day holding his head in one hand and sword in the other. A remnant of this violent history evolved into the practice of carrying a dagger, one of the five main Sikh traditions. The other four are: letting hair grow from birth, wearing a comb underneath the turban, a wristband and a kind of long underwear. Riki goes to temple every morning. Their holy book is treated as a living person, having an honored place in the household, complete with a bed. Despite violent incidents in Indian history, Sikhs are peaceful now, according to Riki. Wearing a dagger is optional.

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