ASWAN
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We went from Luxor to Aswan and back to Luxor. It's great watching the world go by up on the upper deck enjoying the breezes, donkeys braying from the banks, calls to prayer when passing towns. Our guide says there are only 20 of the 300 Nile cruise boats operating now (all I can say is "thank heavens"–less diesel fumes, crowds and waiting in line).

However, the tourism industry is suffering savagely. Sultan, our guide, says it's more than worth the downturn in business to be free to say what he wants. He goes on and on about how much Mubarak and his wife have stolen and kept the country poor. Before the Jan. 25 revolution, he couldn't say anything about politics and religion while guiding. He had to portray Mubarak as their great protector. Our group kids him when there's a group decision to be made, saying that we have to be democratic now - not being told what to do.

Other destinations: Abu Simbel | Valley of the Kings | Edfou | Karnak | Luxor temple