The only other inhabitants when I arrived at Balos were goats who begrudgingly shared their island with me. About 1 p.m. other people started coming. A deserted bar/club site suggested more festive summer days.

From the Balos beach you can walk over connecting rocks to the island of Gramvousa where I came upon a beautiful little stone church (picture to come). Churches appear along roads and in the most remote of places, complete with religious icons and art inside.