I'm not into extreme tourism, but did rent a 4-wheel jeepster-like thing (notice how mechanically knowledgeable I am) to go to Balos.

The 11-kilometer road after turning off the main road is all rock... protruding rock which could seriously maim the underside of a low-slung car.

You spend another half hour riding the bumps and avoiding hitting goats who don't seem much concerned about oncoming cars. Some people go in regular cars, but I was exceedingly happy to have a 4-wheel-drive, which I needed only twice, but was certainly glad I had it.

It's worth the 1.30-euro, 20-minute bus ride into Chania to check out car rentals where they cost half what is charged in Kato Stalos.